![]() I find it easier to turn the work on it's side when I'm working from left to right back across a row. If this is more than 2 stitches away from the last worked stitch then you can weave in the yarn at the back of the work to avoid a long yarn float. To start the next row bring your needle from the back of the work to the front through the centre of the next stitch to be worked in the design. Work across the length of the the row in the design that you are duplicating, repeating each step above for each stitch worked.Īs you gain confidence with the technique you'll find that you can work entirely from the front side of the work and just slide your needle tip across from the end of one duplicate stitch to the bottom 'V' start point of the next stitch.įinish the row with your needle on the wrong side of the work. Don't pull it too tightly or the work will begin to pucker but don't leave the duplicate yarn too baggy either - it needs to rest gently on top of the stitch being duplicated, hiding as much of it as possible. Now from the front of the work slide the needle through both 'arms' of the stitch above, in the same direction as you are working in across the row (I always work the first row from right to left).Īnd lastly take the needle back through the 'V' point of the stitch that you are duplicating from the front of the work to the back.Īt this point check the tension of the duplicate yarn. Thread your needle loaded with the length of yarn you've chosen for the design through your knitted piece from the back to the front by coming through the 'V' point of the first knit stitch that you want to duplicate. I prefer to start from the bottom right corner but doesn't matter if you start from the left or right of a design, so you choose what you're most comfortable with.įind the centre point of your chart and mark the centre point of your knitting - this will make it easier to count out stitches so that you begin your design in the right place (here I've used a piece of blue thread to mark the centre stitch). I've found it much harder to get a neat finish if I am working downwards and threading the yarn behind an already duplicated stitch above - it never sits as neatly so I recommend always starting at the bottom of the design and working upwards. Start from a bottom corner of your chosen design. Tip: if you are using a yarn that snaps easily (like a single ply yarn) then you may want to work with shorter lengths and join in new lengths regularly at the back of the work - I've found that the repeated sewing through the stitches can wear a weak yarn and cause it to snap. It's good to choose a colour that contrasts well with the background colour of your knitted piece and the weight of the yarn needs to be at least equal to the weight used in the background knitting. Thread the needle with a long length of your chosen yarn. It is better to use a slightly blunt-nosed needle as a sharp needle can split stitches in the knitted fabric and make the whole process a bit more difficult. You will find it easier to work duplicate stitch neatly if your piece of knitting that lies flat so if you're unsure then best block first. To block or not to block: It's entirely up to you. For instance in this little heart below I've added half a stitch at either end of the top row in order to smooth the curve of the top of the heart. Using duplicate stitch allows you to cheat a little by duplicate stitching just half a stitch.It is not recommended to use a yarn that is thinner (or substantially thicker) than the yarn used for the knitting. For instance you could use a fluffy yarn to work an animal design. ![]()
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